Multi-ply article and method of making same



Oct. 11, 193s. f

M. SPERBER 2,132,907 MULTI-FLY ARTICLE AMD METHOD oF MAKING SAME FiledAug. 23, 1935 Patented Oct. l l, 1938 UNITED STATES MULTI-FLY ARTICLEAND METHOD F MAKING SAME Meyer Sperber, Philade iii'ty one-hundredthsYardley, Pa.

lplnis.,Pasanignol'of'v toFranklt.Redman,v

Application aum 2s, 19:5, serai No. 37,605

. Y s claim. gol.' 154-2) a My invention relates to an improvement inmulinvention contemplates thepossibility of eliminatti-ply articles,such as collars and other articles of apparel, and to a method ofmanufacturing such products. More particularly this invention 5 relatesto. improvements in the type of multi-ply articles of apparel known inthe trade as starchless or fused collars and the like.

. The principal object of the present invention is to provide a novelmulti-ply article. which has many advantages, Vfrom the standpoint ofboth manufacture and use, as compared with the prod' ucts previouslyavailable. Another object of the invention is to provide an` improvedarticle of apparel, such as a collar, of

the starchless or fused type in which the ply having the cementitioussurface coating thereon is characterized by its pervious nature, withaccompanying advantages.

A further object of the invention is to provide a. novel method ofmanufacturing a multi-ply @structure embodied in articlesv of the typedescribed.

As the invention is directed particularly to articles of apparel ofmulti-ply construction, such as collars, cuffs, bosoms, and the like, itwill be described with particular reference to this type' of product,and more especially to collars, although it likewise pertains to otherarticles which are sub-A jected to repeated laundering.

In the drawing: j

. VFigure y1 is a perspective view of a collar em' bodying theinvention, a portion of the outer cover cloth being turned back todisclose the lining ply; Figure'2 is an enlarged perspective viewshowing the lining material of the invention;

I Figure 3 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view showing one of thepins or punches extending through the lining material; and 4 Figure 4 isan enlarged fragmentary sectional ,40 view of the multi-ply articleshown in Figure 1. l It is" general practice in the manufacture ofcollars to assemble multiple plies of fabric which have previously beencut in desired shape and size.

: A collar so assembled can be-divided into its two major parts, namely,the neck-band and the foldover top. In general practice, both of thesemajorparts are constructed from three plies of fabric; a face'ply,'aninterlining, and a back ply, the necky band and fold-over top being madeup separately,

and subsequently stitched tog ther. While there are other processes ofmanufa uring collars-this method is the one most univer ly practiced,and the present invention is intended to conform particularly withyequipment used .to manufacture collars of such general construction,although the v lng one' of the component plies, if desired.

- The starchless or fused type of collars now on the market is ingeneral characterized by the use of material associated with theinterliner which 5 i* is 'water-insoluble and binds the interliner tothe cover cloth or cloths. 'I'hese are of two types, in the first ofwhich the interliner itself is woven of threads of cotton and of alatentlycementitious material such as cellulose acetate. This inter- 10liner is placed in contact with the lcover cloth or cloths and a solventacting upon the cellulose acetate is applied.,v When the solventevaporates, a bondl is created between the interliner and/the othermaterial.

In the second type, the interliner which may be of the usual cottonfabric or other material employed in starclied collars is treated with acementitious material in Aplastic condition or in a .solvent. 'Iheinterliner upon being dried has an im- 20 pervious coating of thematerial upon its surface. When the treated interliner is assembled withthe cover cloth or cloths, a bond is created between the materials by anappropriateistep 4depending on the nature of the cementitious material.If the 25 material is of the type of cellulosel acetate or the like, asolvent for. the coating is applied and after drying a bonded product isobtained. In the United States Patent No. 2,009,139, granted to .FrankR. Redman, July 23, 1935, the us of ther- 30 mo-plastic resinousmaterial as the bonding agent is described, which material is capable ofbeing cementitiously softened at pressing temperatures,

vbutxstill retains its adhesion at andbelow the boiling temperatureotwater. If this type of ma- 35 `terial is used as the cementitioussubstance, the

bonding of the plies .is eifected by heat and pressure without the aidof a solvent. The present invention relates to the fused collars ofthesecond type, that is to say, collars 40 where an interliner'coated witha cementitious material is employed in the fabrication of the arp ticle.Asl previously stated, the coating as orig-V inally applied at least, isimpervious to air and. Y

lprovided before fabrication of the article, which v in all respects isequal or superior to the impervious coated interliners used previously.A

There is a tendency for thecollars xnanufac- 55 tured from theinterliners having the impervious cementitious coating to blister duringironing after laundering with the production of resulting wrinkles inthe iron product. This is-due to -the fact hat the vapor evolved duringthe ironing has no Ynutlet and, therefore, may build up in front of A,Ythe ironin the formof a blister, it being under- Ystood that the collarhas been moistened during laundering or prior treatment and that theapplil0 cation of the hot iron on other pressing device to the moistenedcollar results in the generation of vapor. Some diiiiculties are also'at times encountered in the laundering of the product, since the Ywashing fluids do not permeate the\interliner. ;YV Such difiiculties aremore pronounced when the laundering includes a bleaching step withfachemical which must be removed bysubsequent treatment. In this case, theiinal washing may not remove the cleansing materials completely, inwhich case the article of apparel may ultimately turn yellow. .i 1 i Thecontinuous iilmof cementitious material in the interliner impartsstiffness thereto whichmanifests itself inits paper quality, impartingto the finishedarticle a "crackle which is considered ldetrimental bysome manufacturers. The lack or' flexibility does not lend itself toeasy manipulation in the manufacture of collars, particularly in thesewing of the plies togethercand in turning the points.-y Y

In accordance with the present invention, these 4 disadvantageoustendencies are overcome and certain new advantages are impartedto theinterliner by perforating the interliner to improve its 5porositywithout in any way destroying the qualities which make itsuitable for the purpose for which it is intended. While the untreatedinterliner may be perforated before coating, provided care is takenduringY the coating operation to avoid lfillingfthe perforations'thereof with the coating material, itis recommended that theperforations be formed in' the coated interliner. More particularly, theinterliner with the continuous coating applied thereto, as taught' bythe prior art, fori example. as taught by the abovemultiplicity ofminute perforations which extend through the'coatingand interliner andbreak up f the continuity lof the surface coating, thereby 0 renderingtljre interliner and the products made therefrom flexible andperviousyto both air and water, and imparting to the fabric thedesirable characteristics mentioned hereinafter. .c

. The interiin'er is coated with the desiredf'cej65 rsired, theinterliner may be rendered substantially`non-shrinking andnon-stretching before the application of the cementitious material, asset forth inthe aforesaid Redman patent.

The multiplicity of minute perforations may be formed through the coatedinterliner by any desired means, for example, by punching or by forcingAa number of pins of the desired shape and size through the fabric. Ineither case, the strncture of the interliner will be cutaway at thepoints of perforation. The multiplicity of perforations mentioned Redmanpatent, YYis provided with a may be produced by forcing a plurality ofpins "through one side of the sheet, in which case the forate thesheet,lit being understood that this procwure will result in theformation of slightly raised portions surrounding each perforation andextending from the side of the sheet opposite that penetrated by thepins or punches. The shape and size of the pins er punches may be variedas desired, but since a very large number of mnuteperforaticns is to bepreferred, the

pins or punches will be very small and/usually circular incross-section. The perforations may be produced without any thoughf'ofregularity and the number of apertures per unit area may be variedwidely. In any-event, the coated interliner ls provided with amultiplicity of-minute per- ,forations each surrounded by a slightlyraised portion of the punched out rriaterial, which raised portionsextend outwardly from one or both faces of the interliner depending uponwhether the perforations are formed by pins or punches forced throughone or both sides ofthe interliner.V

In a specific example, a lining fabric of 6G sley 'of single thirtyscotton and 4 8 picksof single fortys cotton coated with a thermoplasticresinous material, as described in the above-mentioned Redman patent, ispassed through a perforating machine to provide245 minute perforationsper square inch through the lining fabric. The interliner with itslatently cementitious but pervious coating is placed between covercloths orgouter piles in the usual method of manufactinjing fused orstarchless collars, and the assembled multi-ply product is subjected toheai'l and pressure to create the desired bond between the lining andcover cloths asgdescribed in theY Redman patent. During the'ironing orpressing operation, ,the slightly; raised portion of the inter-y linerwhich surrounds each perforation and whichresults from the piercing orpunching operationv above referred to, is pressed into the correspondingperforation to partially but not 'completely the same, il' e., thematerial ds not completely ll the perforation but leaves a ielativelysmall opening through the interliner at each perforation, which openingsare Ynot discernible through the cover cloths but render the productsufiiciently pervious to .-satisfactorily accomplish the objects of thepresent invention. The small perforations or openings remain in theinterliner during repeated launderings but are not apparent in thefinished-article. In, the drawing, the

cover clothsareshown at I, the interliner at 2,

raised portions into the corresponding perform.

tions to partially but not completely illl the same.

In addition to rendering the interlining per- Yvious and iiexible withthe advantages previously kpointed out, anrincreased bond is affordedbe- I jacent the perforations, this keying of the cover f cloths at theperforations being due to the fact (that thereis a slight but notdiscernible indentation or depression in the surface of the interlineradjacent each opening as shown in greatly y exaggerated form in Figure 4ofthe accompany-` ing drawings. These indentations or depressionslmaterially assist in preventing slippage 'of the cover cloths withrespect to the interliner. It will be obvious that when the collarismoistened and ironed, `the openings 3 will permitthe escape of steam orvapor through the collar and that blistering of the cover cloths andresulting wrinkling thereof will be effectively eliminated. A

It will be understood, of course, that the invention is susceptible tochange or modification as to its details without departing from thescope thereof. I

I claim: v v

1. The method of making an interliner forfuse in the manufacture ofmulti-ply' articles such as collars or the likewhich'comprises applyingtou a sheet a coating of latently cementitious, substantiallywater-insoluble material, and thereafter providingl said coated 'sheetwith a multiplicity of perforations each of which is surrounded by aslightly raised portion ofthe coated sheet, which portion is bendableinto its corre'- sponding perforation to partially ll the same.

` 2. rI he method of making an interliner for use inthe manufacture ofmulti-ply articles such as A collars or the like, which comprisesapplying to a sheet a. coating of latently cementitious, substantiallywater-insoluble, thermoplastic material, and thereafter providing saidcoated sheet with a' multiplicity of perforations each of which issurrounded by a slightly raised portion of the coated sheet, whichportion isl bendable into its corresponding perforation to partiallyAfill thev same.

-3. As an article of manufacture, an interliner for multi-ply articlessuch as collars orthe like, comprising a sheet having a coating ofvlatently cementitious and substantially water-insoluble materialthereon and having a multiplicity of r. perforations extendingtherethrough with slightly'raised portions of said coated sheetsurrounding each corresponding perforation and extending outwardly fromthe surface of said sheet.

4. As an article of manufacture, an interliner for'multi-ply articlessuch as collars and the like, comprising a sheet having a coating oflatently cementitious, substantially water-insoluble, thermoplasticmaterial thereon and having a multiplicity of perforationsextendingrtherethrough vwith slightly raised portions of -said coatedsheet surrounding each corresponding perforation and extending outwardlyfrom the A o surfa e of said sheet.

5. n the manufacture of 'multi-plyrarticles such as collars and thelike, the method which comprises piercing' an interliner having acoatingof latently cementitioussubstantially water-A insoluble materialthereon to produce a multiplicity of perforations-throughsaid coatedinterliner with a slightly raised portion ofthe coated interlinersurrounding each perforation, assem- .bling said perforated interlinerwith a cover cloth, and pressing said assembled multi-ply structure torender said coating material cementitious w bond said cover cloth tosaid interliner and to force the slightly raised portion surroundingeach perforation into its corresponding perforation to partially ll thesame so as to leave a multiplicity of small openings through the coatedinterliner of sufllcient mi-v liner with a slightly raised portion ofthe coated' interliner surrounding each perforation, assembling saidperforated interliner with a pervious cover cloth, moistening 'saidassembled multi-ply structure, and applying heat and pressure to saidassembled multi-ply structure to render-.said coating 'materialcementitious to bond said cover cloth to said interliner and to forcethe slightly Iraised portion surrounding each perforation into itscorresponding perforation to partially i111 the lsaine so as to leave amultiplicity of small openings through the coated interliner ofsuilicient 'minuteness as-not to be apparent on the face v of the covercloth, said openings rendering the structure pervious to permit theescape of vapor created therin during the application of nheat andpressure *to the moistened assembled multiply structure, wherebyblistering of the material and resulting wrinkling .of ,the cover clothare eliminated.

7. In the manufacture of multi-ply articlesl such as collars and thelike, the method which lcomprises piercing an interliner having acoating of latently cementitious, substantially waterinsoluble,thermoplastic material thereon to produce a multiplicity of perforationsthrough said coated vinterliner with. a slightly raised portion of .thecoated interliner surrounding each perforation, assembling saidperforated interliner with a pervious cover cloth, moistening saidassembled multi-ply structure, and applying heat and pressure to saidassembled multi-ply structure to render said coating materialcementitious to bond said cover cloth to said interlinerand to force theslightly raised portion surrounding each perforation into itscorresponding perforation to partiallyilll the same so as to leave, amultiplicity of small 4openings through the interliner of sufficientminuteness as not to -be apparent onvthe face of the cover cloth, saidopeningsl rendering the structure pervious to permit the escape of vaporcreated therein during the application' ofthea't and pressure to themoistened.' assembled multi-ply structure, whereby vblistering of thevmaterial and resulting wrinkling of the cover cloth are eliminated.

8. A multi-ply article "such as a collar-or the like including a covercloth and an interlinerA therefor, said interliner comprising a sheethaving a coating of latently cementitious, substantially water-insolublematerial thereon to bond coating material is rendered cementitious vandsaid coated interliner having a multiplicity of perforations each ofwhich' is partially closed said cover cloth to said interliner when saidby a portion of the surrounding coated sheet Awhich'extends into itscorresponding perforation to produce a multiplicity of small openingsthrough said interliner of sufllcient minuteness i as not to Alie'apparent on the vvface of the lcover cloth.

9. A multi-ply article such as a collar or the like including a covercloth and an interliner.

therefor, said 'interliner comprising a sheet hav# ing a coating oflatently` cementitious, substan- .tially water-insoluble, thermoplasticmateria thereon to. bond said cover cloth to said interlinerv upon tlie.application of heat andv pressure interliner having a multiplicity ofperforations each of which is partially closed by a portion of thesurrounding coated sheet which'extends into its correspondingperforation to produce a multiplicity of small openings through saidinterliner of suicient minutenes's as not to be apparent on the face ofthe cover `clot SPERBER.

